Wall packs, area and flood split by lumen output, so you can size the fixture before you shop it.
Emergency drivers stocked, not ordered in — Bodine, IOTA and Keystone on the shelf. Fluorescent and HID ballasts still carried for the buildings that have not converted. LED drivers
Philips, Advance, Bodine, Halo and Metalux all sit under one manufacturer.
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Outdoor lighting fixtures are chosen by the surface they light, and that settles the family before wattage does. A building face at 10 to 20 feet takes a wall pack. A sign, a facade or a flag takes an aimed LED flood light. A paved lot takes a pole-mounted area light, and a walkway takes a bollard at 36 to 42 inches. At a front door or a garage, outdoor wall sconces and outdoor wall mount lights do the job where the fixture is seen as much as its light.
Space poles at 3 to 4 times their mounting height. Wider leaves dark gaps that fail a uniformity check even when the average passes. Post top lights work around 10 to 14 feet, canopy lights near 14, and roadway fixtures at 25 feet and up. Then the location rating. IP65 is an ingress test; wet location is a UL 1598 listing, and the inspector asks for the listing. Parking garage, outdoor vapor proof, underwater and outdoor hazardous location fixtures carry a further rating on top.
At a house, the jobs are the porch, the driveway and the path, and 3000K or warmer keeps light out of the neighbors' windows. Outdoor pendant lights hang under a porch ceiling, surface mount fixtures go on soffits, landscape lights and outdoor step lights mark edges, and solar lights suit a path 50 feet from the nearest circuit. Commercial outdoor lighting adds the sign and the lot: sign lights on a facade, motion-sensing security lights at doors, and paving held to about 0.5 to 1 foot-candle.
On a pole, measure the tenon before ordering; 2-3/8 inch outside diameter is the common size. Then read the old ballast label for voltage, because a 480V lot needs a 347-480V driver. Size against what the old lamp was really delivering. A metal halide lamp that has run for years puts out far less than its label, so matching the rated lumens over-lights the lot. On a house, check that the new canopy covers the junction box, and if the fixture has its own photocell, leave the wall switch on.
Controls are the line most often missing from an order. Check each listing for an integral photocell or a twist-lock receptacle; a 3-pin receptacle only switches, while 5 and 7-pin carry a dimming signal. Rebates key off the exact model number on the DLC list. Discontinued fixtures stay listed, so an old model number still finds its page. To match a fixture with no readable label, call 888-307-3700 with the tenon size, the voltage and the old head's dimensions.
Match it to the surface. A wall pack mounts on the building and washes the wall and the ground beside it. A flood is aimed at one target. An area light on a pole lights paving evenly. A bollard lights a path at knee height, and it gets over-specified: at a few hundred lumens each, lighting a driveway with bollards takes far more units than planned. At a door, a wall sconce or wall mount light is the decorative choice.
They answer different questions. IP is an ingress test: IP65 means dust tight and protected against low-pressure jets, IP66 against powerful jets. Wet location is a UL 1598 safety listing, and it is the one an inspector asks for. A fixture can carry IP65 and still lack the listing. Damp location means protected from direct exposure, so a damp-rated fixture on an open wall or an uncovered porch fails.
Full cutoff is an IES classification: no light at or above horizontal, and no more than 10 percent at 80 degrees. It limits uplight and glare, which most ordinances target. Newer ordinances cite the BUG rating from IES TM-15, which scores backlight, uplight and glare separately. The DarkSky International approval program also caps color temperature at 3000K, so a 5000K fixture cannot carry that seal however well it is shielded. Near homes, warmer is the safer choice.
Brighter than needed is the common mistake. A front entry is well served by roughly 400 to 800 lumens, a garage door by 800 to 1,500 per side-mounted fixture, and a driveway by a single shielded fixture rather than several bright ones. Past that, the extra output ends up as glare in a neighbor's window. Choose 2700K or 3000K, and use a photocell or motion sensor so the light runs only when it is useful.
It switches the fixture on as daylight falls to roughly 1 to 3 foot-candles and off at a higher level. That deliberate gap stops headlights or a passing cloud from cycling the light. Aim the cell north and away from its own fixture, or it sees its own output and hunts on and off all night. Wall packs, floods, area lights, security lights and many residential wall lights offer it, either built in or as a twist-lock add-on.
The US Flag Code asks that a flag flown after dark be illuminated, so start with the control: a photocell means nobody has to remember a switch. Set three in-grade or spike-mounted fixtures evenly around the base, aimed up, so the flag reads whichever way the wind takes it. Aim high enough to catch the top as well as the fabric. A 20 to 25 foot pole is usually served by a few thousand lumens per fixture.
Work in foot-candles first. IES RP-20 puts basic parking near 0.2 foot-candles minimum maintained, and most lots are designed to 0.5 to 1.0 average with a 4:1 average-to-minimum ratio. Poles at 20 to 25 feet, spaced three to four times their height, are the usual layout; taller poles cover more ground but push glare past the property line. Turn that into fixtures with a photometric layout on the real pole positions.
Match the distribution as well as the output. An HID head throws a Type II, III, IV or V pattern, and the pattern decides where light lands: Type IV for the edge of a lot, Type V in the middle. Then check the pole's EPA rating against the new head's wind load and the mounting, slipfitter or arm. Add a backlight shield where the pole sits near a property line. Size against the old lamp's mean lumens.
Most prescriptive utility programs require the exact model to be on the DLC Qualified Products List, or ENERGY STAR for smaller residential fixtures, at the time of purchase. Some now require DLC Premium or networked controls, and a Standard listing will not qualify there. Amounts, caps and pre-approval rules are set by each utility and change mid-year, so confirm the current program before ordering, and keep the invoice showing the model numbers.
At a house, solar suits path markers, a gate or a shed where running a circuit costs more than the light. In a business setting it wins at a remote gate, a dumpster enclosure or a sign at the far end of a lot. It struggles where a foot-candle minimum applies, because the panel and battery have to cover the worst winter week, and the annual average flatters it. Treat the battery as a consumable with a replacement date.
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