Wall packs, area and flood split by lumen output, so you can size the fixture before you shop it.
Emergency drivers stocked, not ordered in — Bodine, IOTA and Keystone on the shelf. Fluorescent and HID ballasts still carried for the buildings that have not converted. LED drivers
Philips, Advance, Bodine, Halo and Metalux all sit under one manufacturer.
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Items 1-25 of 296
circle-dot 3000K - 15W - 1600LM - 120V - CRI - UL Certified
each
circle-dot 4000K - 15W - 1600LM - 120V - CRI - UL Certified
circle-dot 5000K - 15W - 1600LM - 120V - CRI - UL Certified
circle-dot 3000K , 4000K , 5000K - 15W - 1600LM - 120V - CRI - UL Certified
circle-dot 4000K - 50W - 6900LM - 120-277V - >70 CRI - UL , DLC Premium Certified
circle-dot ESF LED Security Floodlight, 1420 Lumens, 4000K Color temp, Flood, Bronze, 1420 Lumens, 15 Watts, 4000K, 80 CRI
circle-dot 3000K - 30W - 3600LM - - 82~84 CRI - UL , DLC Premium Certified
circle-dot 5000K - 10W - 950LM - 120V - >80 CRI - ETL Certified
circle-dot 3000K - 6W - 450LM - 12V - >80 CRI
circle-dot ESF LED Security Floodlight, 1420 Lumens, 4000K Color temp, White, 1420 Lumens, 15 Watts, 4000K, 80 CRI
circle-dot LF3-15CW-KN - LED FLOOD LIGHTS LF3 SERIES - 1/2 Knuckle Mount, 120~277V, 15W, 5000K - 5000K - 1600LM Lumens - 15W Watts - Input Voltage:120/277V
circle-dot ESF LED Security Floodlight, 1420 Lumens, 4000K Color temp, Dusk to Dawn, Bronze, 1420 Lumens, 15 Watts, 4000K, 80 CRI
circle-dot 3000K - 10W - 950LM - 120V - >80 CRI - ETL Certified
circle-dot 5000K - 10W - 950LM - 120V - >80 CRI - ETL Certified DISCONTINUED The suggested replacement is Westgate Model # FLH-10W-50K-BR
Out of Stock
circle-dot ESF LED Security Floodlight, 2372 Lumens, 4000K Color temp, Flood, White, 2372 Lumens, 23.9 Watts, 4000K, 80 CRI
circle-dot ESF LED Security Floodlight, 2372 Lumens, 4000K Color temp, Flood, Bronze, 2372 Lumens, 23.9 Watts, 4000K, 80 CRI
circle-dot 3000K - 15W - 1700LM - 120-277V - 82~84 CRI - UL , DLC Premium Certified DISCONTINUED by Westgate. WILL SHIP the new generation Power Selectable...
circle-dot 4000K - 15W - 1700LM - 120-277V - 82~84 CRI - UL , DLC Premium Certified DISCONTINUED by Westgate. WILL SHIP the new generation Power Selectable...
circle-dot LF3-15CW-TR - LED FLOOD LIGHTS LF3 SERIES - Thread Connector, 120~277V, 15W, 5000K - 5000K - 1600LM Lumens - 15W Watts - Input Voltage:120/277V DISCONTINUED...
circle-dot LFX-XS-15W-30K-TR - X-Gen. Extra Small Flood Lights with U Bracket, 15W, 3000K - 3000K - 1950 Lumens - 15W Watts - Input Voltage:120/277V
LED flood lights are specified by delivered lumens, not by wattage. A 50W fixture producing 6,500 lumens will out-perform a 150W metal halide that has aged two years, because HID output falls steeply over its life while LED does not. For general area washing, plan on 20,000 to 30,000 lumens for a parking area, 6,000 to 12,000 for a loading door or building face, and 3,000 to 6,000 for signage or a flag. Fixture wattage is still worth knowing for the energy calculation, but it should not be what you shop on.
Two fixtures with identical lumen output light very different areas. A narrow 15-degree beam throws a tight, bright pool a long way and suits a flag pole, a tall sign or a building feature. A 60-degree beam is the general-purpose choice for walls and yards. Anything wider than about 90 degrees behaves more like an area light than a flood, and at that point a shoebox on a pole is usually the better fixture. Match the beam to the distance first, then check the lumens. As a rule of thumb, halve the beam angle each time you double the throw distance, or the pool of light spreads faster than the fixture can fill it and the center goes dim.
Most fixtures ship on an adjustable knuckle or a trunnion yoke; the knuckle aims in one axis and is quicker to set, the yoke gives finer control and holds aim better under wind load. Nearly everything in this category runs on 120-277V universal input, so the same fixture works on residential and commercial service without a separate part number. Check whether a photocell is integral, twist-lock ready, or absent entirely before ordering — it is the most common omission on a flood light order. Slipfitter models exist for pole and tenon mounting, and ground-spike versions are available where the fixture is aimed up at a wall or a tree rather than down at a surface.
Work from the area, not the fixture. A single-door building entrance is well served by 3,000 to 5,000 lumens. A loading dock or a two-bay yard typically wants 10,000 to 15,000. A small parking area needs 20,000 or more, usually split across several fixtures rather than one very bright one, because a single source creates hard shadows and glare that make the space feel less safe rather than more.
A 100W to 150W LED flood is the usual equivalent, delivering roughly 13,000 to 20,000 lumens. The comparison is not purely arithmetic. Metal halide loses 30% or more of its output within the first two years and shifts color as it ages, so a like-for-like lumen swap against a new lamp usually over-lights the space. Match against the lamp's mean output rather than its initial rating.
Yes, and most commercial fixtures are built for it. Three arrangements are common: an integral photocell built into the housing, a twist-lock receptacle that takes a standard screw-in control, and no control at all for fixtures intended to run on a contactor or building timer. Integral units are simplest; twist-lock is preferable where the control may need replacing without taking the fixture down.
A narrow beam, typically 15 to 25 degrees, mounted at the pole base and aimed up. Wider beams waste most of their output past the edges of the flag and create glare for anyone nearby. Three fixtures spaced evenly around the pole light the flag from all sides so it reads properly regardless of how the wind is blowing, which a single fixture cannot do.
Many are, but it is never safe to assume. Look for a 0-10V dimming driver, which is the commercial standard and is called out explicitly in the specifications. Fixtures without it are non-dimming and will flicker, buzz or fail early on a dimmer. Triac or leading-edge dimming, common in residential lighting, is rare in this category and should be confirmed rather than assumed.
4000K is the commercial default and reads as clean white without looking clinical. 5000K appears brighter for the same lumen output and is often chosen for security lighting, though it can feel harsh against warmer architecture. 3000K is warmer and is usually specified where the lighting is meant to be flattering rather than functional, such as hospitality frontages or residential approaches.
Yes. RGBW fixtures add a dedicated white LED alongside the red, green and blue emitters, so the same unit gives usable white light for security as well as color for architectural or seasonal work. Control is usually DMX or a handheld remote depending on the model. Check the white channel's lumen output separately — an RGBW fixture rated on combined output is dimmer in plain white than its headline figure suggests.
Beam shape and mounting. A flood light throws a directional beam at a target — a wall, a sign, a flag — and is aimed. An area light, such as a shoebox, is pole-mounted and casts a broad controlled pattern downward to light a surface evenly. If you are lighting something, you want a flood. If you are lighting somewhere, you want an area light.
Rated life is typically 50,000 to 100,000 hours, quoted as L70 — the point at which output has fallen to 70% of original. On a dusk-to-dawn schedule of roughly 4,300 hours a year, 50,000 hours is about eleven years. The driver is usually the first component to fail rather than the LEDs themselves, so the warranty on the driver is worth reading more carefully than the L70 figure.
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