Wall packs, area and flood split by lumen output, so you can size the fixture before you shop it.
Emergency drivers stocked, not ordered in — Bodine, IOTA and Keystone on the shelf. Fluorescent and HID ballasts still carried for the buildings that have not converted. LED drivers
Philips, Advance, Bodine, Halo and Metalux all sit under one manufacturer.
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Lighting replacement parts put a fixture back in service, and the part in your hand usually says what to order. A capacitor prints its microfarad value and voltage on the can. An ignitor gives a catalog number and the lamp wattage range it serves. Lamp sockets are named by shell diameter in millimeters, 26 for medium and 39 for mogul. When the fixture itself is past repair, LED retrofit kits convert the housing in place, and compact fluorescent adapters serve older pin-base fixtures.
Most of these parts carry one rating that must match exactly and one that may exceed the original. A capacitor's microfarad value must match; its voltage rating can be equal or higher. A socket's shell size must match; its wattage and pulse rating can exceed the lamp's. Photocells and sensors from lighting controls carry the rating people miss. A unit rated 1,000 watts on incandescent may handle only a few hundred watts of LED, because driver inrush current welds its contacts.
In a house, the common jobs are a recessed trim that has yellowed or dropped, a porch photocell that leaves the light on all day, or a can that needs a new recessed housing because it is non-IC under insulation. In a building, the volume is HID repair on 25-foot poles and high bays, emergency batteries in exit signs and egress fixtures, and central inverters that carry whole circuits. High bay accessories and fixture accessories cover the add-ons ordered after a fixture is already up.
An HID fixture that has gone dark has four suspects. The lamp goes first: metal halide at end of life either will not strike or cycles on and off, usually past its 10,000 to 20,000 hour rating. The capacitor is next, and a bulging or leaking can settles it. Then the ignitor, on pulse-start and high pressure sodium gear. The ballast usually outlives all three, so replacing one for a failure the capacitor caused is the most expensive mistake in this category.
Check each listing for a case quantity before ordering; where one is set, the cart accepts only multiples of it. Discontinued sockets, capacitors and ignitors stay listed so an old number still finds its page. When the number has worn off a part, call 888-307-3700 with three things from the fixture: lamp type and wattage, the ballast catalog number, and supply voltage. Those usually identify a capacitor or ignitor without the original part number.
Five parts replace separately: lamp, capacitor, ignitor, socket and ballast. Diagnose in that order, because the lamp and the capacitor account for most failures and the ballast for the fewest. Replace the socket whenever you are already inside pulse-start gear, since it carries the 3 to 5 kV starting pulse and a tracked or cracked socket will destroy a new ignitor within days. Write the ballast catalog number down before ordering anything.
Match the microfarad value exactly and the voltage rating at equal or higher. Both are printed on the can, for example 24 uF 280 VAC. The microfarad figure sets lamp current, so a substitute one or two uF off either under-drives the lamp or runs the ballast hot, shortening the life of both. Going higher on voltage is safe if the can physically fits the housing. Dry film and oil-filled types are electrically interchangeable.
It generates the high-voltage pulse, typically 3 to 5 kV, that strikes a pulse-start metal halide or high pressure sodium lamp. A failed ignitor gives a lamp that never lights or even flickers while the ballast hums normally. An HPS lamp that starts, runs a few minutes, goes out and restrikes is showing the opposite: end of lamp life, which a new ignitor will not cure. Respect the maximum lead length on the datasheet.
Where the battery sits and how much it powers. An emergency ballast or battery pack lives in or on one fixture and drives that fixture's lamp at reduced output for the required runtime. An inverter is a separate battery unit supplying normal AC to whole fixtures, sized in watts or VA. Choose the ballast for one or two designated fixtures per area, and the inverter when several fixtures must stay lit at full output.
Plan on replacing it every few years on a schedule, because sealed lead acid and nickel cadmium packs are consumables. Heat sets the interval, and a unit above a warm ceiling ages far faster than its datasheet suggests. Let the annual full-duration discharge result set the replacement date, since the charge indicator only proves the charger works. When reordering, match chemistry, voltage and connector; the right voltage with the wrong plug still won't fit.
Measure the shell. The number is the diameter in millimeters, so E26 medium is about an inch across and E39 mogul about an inch and a half. Mogul carries HID and large high-wattage lamps; medium takes most household and LED bulbs. A cracked or scorched socket is replaceable in most fixtures and table lamps: match the base, the wattage rating and the mounting, and turn the power off at the breaker first.
It depends on the existing ballast. A plug-and-play LED pin-base lamp runs on the CFL ballast only if that exact ballast appears on the lamp's compatibility list, and those lists are short. A ballast-bypass lamp needs the ballast removed and the socket wired to line voltage, which is rewiring. If the ballast is ten years old or more, bypass it now or fit an adapter, or you will be back inside that fixture soon.
A retrofit kit fits when three things line up: the aperture matches, the can has a medium screw socket the kit's adapter can use, and the kit's retention matches the can, torsion springs into slots or coil springs onto hooks. Measure the aperture at the ceiling opening, since the old trim flange is always wider. Choose a new housing and trim when the socket is damaged, the can is non-IC under insulation, or you want a different aperture.
Start with the load rating for your lamp type, then the mounting. Photocells come as button or stem mount, or as a twist-lock cap on a NEMA receptacle; a 7-pin receptacle also carries 0-10V dimming. Look for a turn-on point around 1 to 2 foot-candles with an off point several times higher, or the unit short-cycles at dusk. For occupancy sensors, choose by sightline: passive infrared needs line of sight, ultrasonic reaches around partitions, and dual technology suits restrooms and stairwells.
It is an LED board, driver and mounting hardware that install inside an existing housing, a troffer, a can or a high bay, after the old ballast and sockets come out. It wins when the housing is sound and replacing it means ceiling work: no tile damage, no new mounting, and less labor than a replacement. Match the kit's lumens to what the old lamps delivered. A new fixture wins when the housing is corroded or the distribution must change.
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