Wall packs, area and flood split by lumen output, so you can size the fixture before you shop it.
Emergency drivers stocked, not ordered in — Bodine, IOTA and Keystone on the shelf. Fluorescent and HID ballasts still carried for the buildings that have not converted. LED drivers
Philips, Advance, Bodine, Halo and Metalux all sit under one manufacturer.
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Replacement light bulbs are fastest to find from the code printed on the glass or stamped into the base: F32T8/841 on a fluorescent tube, MH400/U on a metal halide lamp, 70PAR38/HAL/FL on a halogen flood. That string carries wattage, shape, diameter, color temperature and CRI, and it cross-references across brands. On a household A19, BR30 or PAR38, the base, the shape and the wattage printed near the neck do the same job. With the code in hand, the LED replacement is usually one search away.
Watts say what a lamp draws. A 32-watt T8 and a 15-watt LED tube can both put out about 2,000 lumens, so compare lumens whenever you change technology. Match color temperature when you relamp part of a room. A 4100K lamp beside a 5000K one reads as a fault, and ANSI bins are wide enough that two lamps marked 4000K from different brands can differ visibly, so keep one brand per space. CRI 80 is the general norm; specify 90 where color is judged.
At home, most replacements are screw-base: an A19 at 800 or 1,600 lumens for the 60 or 100-watt incandescent it replaces, a BR30 in a recessed can, a PAR38 in an outdoor flood holder. Pin-base compact fluorescent lamps still serve older kitchen and bath fixtures. In a building, the volume is in linear fluorescent tubes, U-bend lamps and HID: high pressure sodium near 2,100K on parking poles, metal halide in gyms and older high bays. Specialty lamps cover the codes that fit no other family.
An E26 medium base will not thread into an E39 mogul socket, and a GU10 twist-lock beside a GU5.3 bi-pin MR16 looks identical in a photo. On linear lamps, check length. A nominal 4-foot T5 measures 45.2 inches (1,149 mm) between base faces and 45.8 inches (1,163 mm) over the pins, so it cannot drop into a 48-inch T8 fixture. Check that an LED lamp is rated for enclosed fixtures, since trapped heat kills its driver. And some lamps are on borrowed time: the 2005 Energy Policy Act ended new mercury vapor ballasts in 2008, so mercury vapor lamps now serve only fixtures already installed.
BulbsDepot is the largest Philips distributor in the Midwest, Philips lamps included. Linear tubes sell by the case, commonly 25, 30 or 10, and the cart accepts only multiples of it. Screw-base, HID and most specialty lamps sell singly. Discontinued lamps stay listed so a code from an old fixture still finds its page, with a replacement named where one is known. If the code has worn off, call 888-307-3700 with the fixture model, the lamp length and the base.
F is fluorescent, 32 is nominal wattage, T means tubular, 8 is the diameter in eighths of an inch, and 841 is 80-plus CRI at 4100K. Wattage does not give you length: an F32T8 is 48 inches and an F17T8 is 24. Suffixes vary by brand. ECO and ALTO mark a low-mercury lamp that passes the TCLP test with the same rating as the standard version. Match the whole string, suffix included, when picking a replacement.
Diameter, in eighths of an inch. That makes T12 an inch and a half across, T8 an inch and T5 five-eighths. The number decides the ballast: a T8 ballast cannot properly run a T12 lamp, even though both sit on a G13 bi-pin base and both are 48 inches long. T5 also changes the base, to a miniature G5 bi-pin, so a T5 needs its own lampholders and ballast. Read the number before reading anything else on the sleeve.
A 4-foot G13 bi-pin LED tube, typically 10 to 18 watts and 1,500 to 2,200 lumens. Look inside the fixture before choosing: the ballast catalog number, because a ballast-driven tube must list that ballast as compatible; whether the sockets are shunted or non-shunted; and whether the fixture is enclosed. An F32T8 on a 0.88 ballast factor delivers about 2,600 lumens in practice, so matching the lamp's rated output over-lights the space.
Three wiring methods. Type A runs on the existing fluorescent ballast: the quickest install, but the tube inherits whatever life the ballast has left, and the ballast keeps drawing its own losses. Type B is direct wire, with the ballast bypassed and line voltage at the sockets, giving the lowest running cost for the most labor; single-ended Type B needs non-shunted sockets. Type C uses a remote LED driver, with the best dimming and the most parts.
About 1,600 lumens. The steps below run roughly 1,100 for a 75-watt, 800 for a 60-watt and 450 for a 40-watt, and an LED A19 at 1,600 lumens draws about 14 to 17 watts. Distribution changes the result. Incandescent light leaves the bulb in every direction, so an LED with a narrower spread at the same rated lumens looks dimmer inside a shade or a deep can. Check beam angle as well as output.
It is the color of the light. 2700K and 3000K are warm white, the usual choice in a house; 3500K is neutral; 4000K is the cool white most offices and schools run; 5000K reads close to overcast daylight. At equal lumens a 5000K lamp is no brighter than a 3000K lamp, though it tends to look it. On a fluorescent code the last two digits carry the value, so 830 is 3000K and 850 is 5000K.
Look at where the bulb meets the socket. A screw base is named by diameter in millimeters: E26 is the standard household base, E12 the small candelabra base on chandeliers and nightlights, E39 the large mogul base on high-wattage lamps. GU10 has two stubby pins and twists a quarter turn to lock. Bi-pin bases push straight in, and the number is the pin spacing in millimeters, so GU5.3 pins sit 5.3 mm apart.
Some are, on two separate tracks. Federal efficiency standards have already removed some lamp types from production. State sales restrictions on general-purpose fluorescent lamps add a second layer that differs by state, by lamp type and by effective date. Those restrictions generally govern sale, so an installed lamp can stay where it is. Check your exact part number and your state before planning a relamp around a lamp you expect to keep buying.
Both, depending on the item. Linear fluorescent and LED tubes are packed and shipped as a full case, and those listings carry a quantity increment: the cart accepts only multiples of it. Read that field before ordering. If it says 25, one click of the quantity box is 25 lamps. HID lamps, specialty lamps and most screw-base types sell as single units. If a listing is unclear, ask before you order.
LED lamps are typically rated 25,000 to 50,000 hours to L70, the point where output has fallen to 70 percent of original. A 4-foot T8 fluorescent is rated around 24,000 to 30,000 hours, an incandescent about 1,000, and metal halide 10,000 to 20,000 with heavy lumen loss on the way. Fluorescent rated life also assumes three hours per start and drops sharply on shorter cycles, while LED is largely indifferent to switching.
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